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Yugo mauser barrel
Yugo mauser barrel





yugo mauser barrel

The barrel should be installed with NO MORE than about 75 ft-lbs. Then, you will automatically have minimal head space, which is very desirable. All you need to do is cut back the outer torque shoulder a wee bit more than absolutely necessary, so that the barrel face will bottom out against the inner C-ring, when the barrel is screwed in. All this method of fitting does is damage the threads and ensure that barrel removal (later) will be a giant PITA ! Do yourself a great favor and DO NOT do it this way. A bloody STUPID practice, if you ask me - and completely unnecessary. In other words, the barrel shank was left just a wee bit long, then the barrel was over-torqued to achieve the final head space. This was done to "crush fit" the threads.and bring head space to the final dimension. The original barrels on ALL of the military Mausers were always installed with too much torque. You can easily time the sight bases afterward.or, as in my case, I installed them from scratch, after barrel installation (I removed them from the barrel before I mounted it). NO more torque is needed - it will NOT "shoot loose". Just mount the barrel for minimal headspace (which can be done by simply adjusting the outer torque shoulder).deal with the extractor groove issue, as needed, and you're done. In that circumstance, there will be no need for chamber reaming or finish reaming. If surplus, then more than likely they are fully chambered. If I were you, I would contact the seller directly and ask whether the barrels in question are BLANKS.or whether they are actual Yugo surplus. If NO assembly number (which the Yugoslavs stamped on each part after initial fitting, to identify groups of parts for final assembly).then the barrel is probably a spare, like mine. It was, essentially, a BRAND NEW 50-plus year old barrel.and it was PRISTINE.Ī good way to tell about this is whether the barrel in question has only a proof mark.or whether it has an assembly number (in addition to the proof mark). When I received it, I was pleasantly surprised to find that it was NOT a take off barrel at all, but rather a SPARE barrel, that had never been mounted. It was sold as a "take off" M48 Numrich. The barrel I used WAS fully chambered and finished. No reamer required or did I miss something? Headspace can be adjusted on the shoulder and the shank (boss) on a lathe. I thought these were fully chambered and throated. I did all of the work myself - for only the cost of the barrel ($34). The rifle is quite safe, has really tight headspace.and excellent accuracy. As I only shoot hand loads, well below maximum pressure, I had no fear of problems.Īs I thought would be the case, there have been NO problems. Thus, I didn't have to worry about indexing the barrel at all - only adjusting the external barrel shoulder, to get the headspace to a minimum. I used a file for this, along with an accurate machinist's square. I removed this feature, when I rebarreled my M48, a few years ago.

yugo mauser barrel

With good quality modern brass and loads that are not on the ragged edge.the safety breech is not really necessary. The "safety" breech design was created early in the 20th century, to compensate for the relatively poor quality of brass of that time, as compared to now. This causes NO problems, as long as the brass you will be using in the rifle is in good condition.

yugo mauser barrel

You can also remove the barrel boss (the "c" shaped extension on the chamber end, which is what needs to be indexed when installing a barrel). This may seem controversial to some, but I'll mention it anyway.







Yugo mauser barrel